A true custom made suit is tailored to your body and has enhanced features to strengthen some of your body’s features. For example, Cary Grant’s suit jackets always had extra pads in the shoulder area to give him better posture.
Following are some characteristics of a classic, trim and extra trim fit:
Classic Cut Hart Shaffner Marx) See my father pictured. He was always a classic cut.
• Cut wider through the shoulders
• Extra room through the chest and back for ease of movement
• Slightly lower button stance
• Fuller trousers (may have pleats)
• Trousers (have a break)
Trim Cut (Calvin Klein)
• Cut narrower across the shoulders
• Higher armhole
• Trimmer through the chest and waist, with room for movement
• Slim trousers
• No break in the trousers
Extra Trim (Ted Baker)
• Cut slim through the shoulders
• High armhole and narrow sleeves
• Slightly higher button stance
• Extra-slim trouser
To tailor a suit to a trim style:
– Slim the arms of the jacket
– Slim the legs on the pants
– Ensure pants have no break