Why are we surprised when we see actresses and actors who look short in real life? That’s because on the screen, their clothing has been tailored to scale to give an impression of greater height.

I like to stretch accessory guidelines. I have been told many times that only certain items should be worn on tall folks and short people. For instance, the rule is that a short person should never have cuffs on their slacks. Also, a tie on a shorter man should be worn slightly longer than appear too short. However, I feel that if the proportions are working and the accessories look good, that usually works no matter what the person is wearing.

Stretching the guidelines on accessories can make an outfit truly stand out.

Recently, I was with a client and her staff. The question came up about professional dress: Is it a requirement to wear a tie or can a sport jacket or suit be acceptable without a tie? Sometimes, clients are dressed without a jacket but always in a shirt and tie. What should they wear to always be acceptable and not under or overdressed?

In a first time meeting, always wear a full suit with a tie. If it is a very casual environment, a gray suit or a navy blazer with gray dress slacks can be worn instead. When making a first time presentation, it is suggested to always wear a blazer in very casual settings without a tie. You can always remove your tie or take off your jacket if the environment is very casual.

Walking in the first time in full dress sets the stage that you are the expert. It is more difficult to appear to be the professional if you come in with just a shirt and dress slacks because jackets always project the leader and subject matter expert look.

A true custom made suit is tailored to your body and has enhanced features to strengthen some of your body’s features. For example, Cary Grant’s suit jackets always had extra pads in the shoulder area to give him better posture.

Following are some characteristics of a classic, trim and extra trim fit:

Classic Cut  Hart Shaffner Marx) See my father pictured. He was always a classic cut.

• Cut wider through the shoulders

• Extra room through the chest and back for ease of movement

• Slightly lower button stance

• Fuller trousers (may have pleats)

• Trousers (have a break)

Trim Cut (Calvin Klein)

• Cut narrower across the shoulders

• Higher armhole

• Trimmer through the chest and waist, with room for movement

• Slim trousers

• No break in the trousers

Extra Trim (Ted Baker)

• Cut slim through the shoulders

• High armhole and narrow sleeves

• Slightly higher button stance

• Extra-slim trouser

To tailor a suit to a trim style:

– Slim the arms of the jacket

– Slim the legs on the pants

– Ensure pants have no break

Recently I had the pleasure of meeting Barbara Cox, the wardrobe assistant to Andy Williams. Barbara handled all of Andy’s wardrobe needs when he performed in Branson, Missouri at The Andy Williams Theater and for his Christmas and other special television performances.

Her stories were amazing. Here are some of her fixes for unexpected wardrobe problems:

Before Febreze…there was vodka. Vodka removes odors from clothing. When clothing smelled, especially when smells originated from sweat (being under hot lights) or Andy wearing layers of clothing and there was no time for the cleaners, they used vodka. So, if you don’t have Febreze, spraying vodka will work in a pinch

To eliminate the yellow ring around the collar, take cheese cloth with Fels Naptha Soap on it, wet it and rub it on the yellow ring on the collar. Then dry the collar with a hair dryer until completely dry.

Rescue tape will fix anything. Use it for a gap on a blouse, to temporarily hem a pair of pants or to fix a last minute tear on a garment.

These were only a few of her secrets. Another came from Phyllis Diller. Phyllis asked her to bring two bottles of wine to her room after the show. She placed her wigs on them because it helped them dry out from the sweat that accumulated when they were worn. (Putting them on the wig’s heads after use keeps them damp, which is not good for the wig.)

See the picture of Barbara and I. She is holding a gown given to her by an actress who hated wearing the dress because it was too heavy.

The new trend is wearing bold on bold in patterns and colors. It is the fashion industry trying to mix it up. I myself love the new trends. However in my profession, the center of attention is on the client and the audience so I stay more conservative in my dress.

But in my personal world, I like living large! All my sport clothing is in bright yellows, greens and pinks. I have yet to embrace the patterned leggings, though, maybe next year. I have encouraged my C-suite clients and friends, men and women, to add bits of boldness to their accessories. For the women, larger necklaces and very smart print underpinnings look good with their black and gray suits.

Men can wear the tie and shirt selections with a bold print in the tie and pick a shirt color to match the suit. They can do the bold stripe socks as long the sock is in the same color family. Recently, a client wore a grey striped sock with his gray suit. It was fun but not distracting. Having fun with clothing selections will definitely make you feel more uplifted.

Years ago, men’s styles changed once every eight years. Today, they seem to change daily- men’s slacks especially. They have become narrower and sport a flat front for the younger man. There is very little break or the pant length just skims the top of the shoes.

There are definitely no cuffs on these slacks.

For the man who wears the traditional slacks with pleats and a fuller pant leg they do tend to have cuffs and a bit of a break in the length (which is considered a dimple on the slack).

Men do have a choice and it really depends on their audience wants and what they want to achieve with their personal brand.

In the Midwest, a black tie event for men means a tuxedo. However, the trend has been moving toward an evening jacket in a color other than black. For the conservative man who wants to stand out, navy and burgundy have become options.

A good friend of mine who is very fashion forward wore one in a gold (not shiny) material. What is not recommended for a black tie event, is a plain black suit, even though I have seen some men wear them.

In a business casual setting, men may not have to necessarily wear a suit jacket all the time, though they might be wearing a shirt and tie most of the time.

Many men in a workshop setting will ask if they can wear a mixed or patterned shirt with a patterned tie. Yes, of course. However, there are a few guidelines to ensure the right mix to look really sharp:

– The shirt stripe must be smaller than the tie pattern

– The tie pattern must be smaller if the shirt stripe is wide

– Make sure there is a similar color in both the tie and shirt

– A tie can be a totally different color than the shirt if the shirt is a non-patterned one

Of course, all of these rules can be broken if you have a dynamic eye for style or a work with a personal stylist!

For women:

• Jewelry, such as necklaces and earrings, that appear too big or too small.

• Purses that are too small for a larger women or too large for a petite women.

For men:

• Ties that are too wide or too skinny.

• Skinny pants that belong on slender men worn by men with ample builds.

• Tee shirts that show bellies.

There are some proportion mistakes folks make because they want to make a fashion statement. If that’s the case, just be sure your audience understands that.

This is the time of year when the temperatures can wildly fluctuate, sometimes by 30 degrees, in the course of just one day! It could be 40 degrees in the morning and 70 in the late afternoon. To cope with this clothing wise (and to avoid looking like Frosty the Snowman) try wearing close fitting, thin layers. This provides the option to remove layers as the temperature rises.

Generally, it’s best to use three layers (especially in the winter):

– An inner layer that keeps the skin dry (like silk or soft wools)

– The mid layer (wool, fleece, down, cotton, synthetic polyester) which provides additional insulation and helps keep you warm. It should be looser fitting to allow for insulating air between the layers.

– A shell layer (plastic raincoats, water resistant materials) that prevents moisture from entering.

However you layer, layering makes efficient use of clothing and also allows you to make use of clothing to produce different looks and mix colors in a stylish way.