When is casual too casual for professional life?
Is it fabric or style that determines when clothing becomes too casual? We want a firm finish or wrinkle-free fabrics in a shirt, pants, or dress of choice. Often, these questions come up when choosing clothing for the office. Err on the polished side when making these decisions. When it comes to trends, stay away from the fads and wait styles out for at least two seasons.
I remember a situation when presenting to a group of high profile attorneys. One of the senior female partners wore a cropped pants suit. Those slacks took a while to take hold to begin with and are now out of fashion. Choose classic cuts with a modern flare. For example, Amal Clooney always wears classic cuts with a different slant to them like a flowered pencil skirt with a tailored sweater.
Not long ago, a major US airline stopped two young girls from boarding their plane because their attire did not conform to airline policy. The problem was their leggings. There was some back and forth on social media, but libertarian impulses tended to dominate and the airline took the brunt of the social verdict. But every once in a while we should use an incident like this to reflect a bit more broadly on how far we have come, and where we are heading in the realm of casual dress. My answer to the first question is that we have come a bit too far and a bit too fast. For example, the time-worn rule of thumb, “No shirt, no shoes, no service” has been up for grabs for many years. What qualifies as a shirt or blouse these days is not much more than a couple of square feet of strategically stitched fabric. What qualifies as shoes would be called a thong on any other part of the body. It will be difficult or impossible to reverse the trends we have experienced over the 30 to 40 years that casual dress has taken hold in the professional environment. But each of us can do our part to hold the line against future erosion of dignity and good taste.
Polished leather shoes are becoming more commonplace with jeans for business casual. The rock stars and actors still favor the white or colorful athletic shoe. However, professionals have found that high gloss leather finished shoes gives elegance to their look.
A recent Tribune article asked if a man can wear gym shoes with a suit. In celebrity magazines, we see actor’s wearing funky shoes with suits and tuxedos. If you are in the fashion or marketing industry or a billionaire why not? For everyone else, if you want to be taken seriously and not be the focus of conversations about your shoes, stick with traditional footwear. For pizazz, mix it up with a different color leather (not red!).
I am fascinated by ties worn by politicians, especially the color and widths while watching news channels and late night talk show hosts. It seems like every color of the rainbow and tie width is making an appearance! Folks who are in style, wear more narrow widths and venture into the lavender, purple and burgundy colors, rather than traditional tie colors that come in wider widths and in blues, reds and grays. The right tie with a complementary suit and jacket sets the tone needed to deliver their message. Smart, elegant or casual earthy tones should be consistent with a desired long term outcome.
Classic styling has dictated that shoes, belts and handbags match. Today’s trends are more in the mix and match category like wearing colors and patterns.
I went out with friends to a high-end Chicago restaurant for a New Year’s Eve celebration. Most of the men were wearing either a suit or a blazer with an oxford dress shirt and no tie. One out of 15 men might have worn a tie. Also, the men chose a shirt varying from light to dark colors. Ties can appear too worn when seen at official events and observed on television anchors and doctors.
At a recent wedding I attended, all of the groomsmen wore brown shoes with blue suits. This is not new if you look at old movies, especially those starring my favorite, Cary Grant, who wore brown shoes with his blue suits. The brown shoes add a bit of casual flair and mitigate the seriousness of the suit. The darker the brown, the more serious. A lighter brown adds a relaxed look to the suit. Both shades of brown add elegance to the look.
A very important but frequently underestimated sartorial consideration is the framing of one’s face. After you are finished donning your ensemble, but before you present yourself to the world, take one last look at your face in the mirror to see if it is appropriately complemented by your choice of clothes and jewelry. For example, a closed collar strengthens formality and authority attributes whereas an open collar signals approachability and connectivity. The color of your shirt, blouse or jacket is a critical choice as it can lend a powerful but subliminal highlighted quality to your face. A necklace can also be chosen to enhance your preferred projection, but be careful not to let it be a distraction. A recent choice by Barbra Streisand was particularly interesting. Her face was well framed by her hair. She used a long necklace to accentuate her body length for this particular concert occasion.
